Digital images of historical Guna Molas

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What are Molas?

Molas are the reverse applique textile panels that form the front and back of traditional blouses worn by women of the Guna culture.  Guna woman, with great skills and insightful design, sew the textile panels using techniques they have practiced for well over a hundred years.

Mola blouse

What is a Guna Mola?

The mola is a traditional textile art form created by the Guna (also spelled Kuna) people of Panama and Colombia. A central aspect of Guna women’s clothing and cultural expression, the mola is a colorful, hand-sewn panel that forms part of a woman’s blouse. Beyond its function as clothing, the mola is a powerful symbol of Guna identity, creativity, and resistance to cultural assimilation.

The word mola means “clothing” or “blouse” in the Guna language, but in common usage it refers specifically to the two rectangular textile panels worn on the front and back of a woman’s blouse. These panels are made using a technique called reverse appliqué, in which several layers of cloth (usually cotton) are sewn together and then selectively cut away to reveal different colors and patterns underneath. The edges of the cut fabric are meticulously turned under and stitched down by hand, resulting in intricate and highly detailed designs. Additional decorative stitching or embroidery may enhance the design further.

Two Mola Blouses from the 1970’s. Note each blouse has two molas, a front and a back, so molas are designed and sewn in matching pairs that share a common theme and design.

Molas are traditionally made by Guna women, who begin learning the craft from an early age. The complexity of a mola’s design can indicate the skill of the maker and her dedication to cultural practices. Molas can take weeks or even months to complete, depending on their size and intricacy. Originally, the Guna decorated their bodies with geometric patterns using natural dyes, but when cloth became available through trade in the 19th century, they transferred these designs to fabric.

Themes in molas vary widely and often reflect a combination of traditional cosmology, modern influences, and personal expression. Geometric patterns remain popular, but many molas also depict animals, plants, mythological creatures, scenes from daily life, and even political or popular culture references. This blending of old and new makes molas not only cultural artifacts but also living, evolving works of art.

Molas come in pairs, the front and back of the blouse. The pair generally shares a common theme, color, style and design as you can see from these two twin bat molas. Slide between them to see the similarities and differences.

Molas also carry deep symbolic and cultural significance. For the Guna, they are a visual language of identity and resistance. During Panama’s efforts to assimilate indigenous populations in the early 20th century, Guna women’s refusal to abandon traditional dress—including the wearing of molas—was a cornerstone of the Guna Revolution of 1925, which led to the establishment of the autonomous Guna Yala territory. Today, molas are a source of pride and a tangible link to Guna traditions, especially in the face of globalization and cultural homogenization.

Another mola pair to compare.

In recent decades, molas have gained recognition as fine folk art and are sold around the world. While this provides income for many Guna families, it also raises concerns about commodification and the loss of traditional meanings. Nonetheless, the mola remains a vibrant symbol of cultural resilience, artistic mastery, and indigenous identity.

Another mola pair

In summary, a mola is far more than a decorative textile. It is a unique expression of Guna worldview, artistry, and resistance—stitched into every thread by the hands of Guna women, passed from generation to generation, and worn with pride.

The mola summary created with the assistance of ChatGPT